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How the Soviet Army Uniform Changed from 1955 to 1991

Soviet Army uniform 1955–1991 parade uniform model 1955 illustration and original tunic comparison

Soviet Army Uniform 1955–1991: Evolution, Orders and Insignia Changes

The Soviet Army uniform between 1955 and 1991 went through several major reforms. This guide explains how the uniform evolved from the post-war model to the final years of the USSR, including Orders No. 120 (1956), No. 191 (1969), and No. 250 (1988).


Contents


1955–1956 Reform: Transition to a Peacetime Uniform

1955 became a turning point in many ways in the development and introduction of military uniforms. The main point was not even the differences from the 1943-pattern uniform, but the very attempt to create a “peacetime” uniform.

Articles this series:

Telnyashka: History of the Russian Navy and VDV Striped Shirt
Guide of the Soviet Afghanka Uniform (M88)
Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army (1968–1991) – Part 1
Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army (1968–1991) – Part 2
Soviet Spetsnaz Uniform in Afghanistan (1979–1989)

A number of Ministry of Defense orders in 1955–56 introduced changes to uniforms and then canceled those same changes. For example, double-sided shoulder boards were introduced for a very short time — colored on one side and protective on the other. The same order canceled the colored piping on shoulder boards (Order No. 225 of December 30, 1955). The double-sided shoulder boards were canceled in 1956, almost as soon as production had begun.

Buttons on collar tabs were abolished by Order No. 70 of April 29, 1955, and branch-of-service insignia appeared instead.

A number of changes were introduced by Order No. 104 of June 23, 1955, and Order No. 105 of June 30, 1955.

By Order of the USSR Ministry of Defense No. 120 of August 4, 1956, new rules for wearing uniforms and branch-of-service insignia were introduced for soldiers, sergeants, and military school cadets for peacetime. Double-sided shoulder boards were no longer mentioned in this order.

Portrait of a Soviet Army soldier wearing post-war uniform, mid-1950s
Soviet Army soldier in standard post-war uniform, mid-1950s

1951.
My father’s brother, after serving 9 months in the revived “Uncle Vasya’s Troops” (Airborne Forces). The uniform is still the old type: collar tabs with buttons, no differences from standard army uniform. The only distinction should be a sleeve patch with the unit emblem.

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Soviet Army sergeant dress uniforms after Order No. 120 of 1956, showing summer and winter parade service uniforms
Fig. 5.
Summer parade-service uniform of a sergeant of the Guards airborne units with medals and a blue beret according to branch of service. Tunic and trousers of protective color.
Fig. 6.
Winter parade-service uniform of a sergeant. Greatcoat.

As can be seen from the illustration, the most consistent element of the uniform was the greatcoat. It practically did not change. Dress uniform according to Order No. 120.

The text of USSR Ministry of Defense Order No. 120 dated August 4, 1956, which defined the rules for wearing uniforms by personnel of the Soviet Army and Navy, can be found here.

Everyday uniform of soldiers and sergeants according to Order No. 120, 1956.

Soviet Army sergeant major summer parade-service uniform, 1950s, pilotka and panama variants, gymnastyorka and trousers in protective color
Fig. 7.
Summer parade-service uniform of a sergeant major.
(Pilotka cap, gymnastyorka tunic and trousers of protective color)
Fig. 8.
Summer parade-service uniform of a sergeant major.
(Panama hat, gymnastyorka tunic and trousers of protective color)

Elements of the parade uniform according to Ministry of Defense orders of 1955–1956.

Elements of Soviet Army parade uniform according to Ministry of Defense orders 1955–1956, officer dress uniform, visor cap, shoulder boards and insignia
Elements of the Soviet Army parade uniform introduced by Ministry of Defense orders in 1955–1956: officer dress uniform, visor cap, shoulder boards, and rank insignia.

Soviet Army parade tunic, 1955 pattern. Classic example with standing collar, brass buttons, and shoulder boards.

Parade tunic, 1955 pattern

Soviet Army parade tunic model 1955 with shoulder boards and brass buttons
Soviet Army parade tunic, 1955 pattern. Classic example with standing collar, brass buttons, and shoulder boards.

Branch Insignia and Service Emblems: What Changed After Order No. 120

In 1957, extended-service soldiers were finally allowed to wear elements of officer uniforms and a chest badge instead of the sleeve insignia they disliked.

The uniform of extended-service personnel, 1957 pattern.

Soviet Army extended service personnel uniform 1957, parade and winter dress uniforms of sergeants and soldiers
Fig. 41. Summer parade-duty uniform of extended service sergeants of the border troops.
Fig. 42. Winter parade-duty uniform of extended service sergeants of the border troops.
Fig. 43. Summer parade-duty uniform of extended service sergeants and enlisted personnel of the internal troops and regular personnel of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (except convoy units).
Fig. 44. Winter parade-duty uniform of extended service sergeants and enlisted personnel of convoy units and regular personnel of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (except border troops).

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The officer-style greatcoat, shoulder belt, and other elements emphasized the serviceman’s status (on the left). On the right are convoy troops and Ministry of Internal Affairs (MVD) personnel.

Of particular interest is the description of branch insignia given in Order No. 120. I finally learned what the engineer troops insignia means. It turns out to be a circular saw. With only minor changes, these insignia survived until the collapse of the USSR. In the 1980s, the separate insignia of the aviation technical service was abolished, although in 1987 some officers were still wearing it, and enlisted men of Air Force units passionately wanted to get it before demobilization. The insignia of the engineer troops and chemical troops were also changed.

Soviet Army Branch Insignia (Order of 1956)

Branch / Service Insignia Description
Rifle Troops A five-pointed star framed by two oak branches
Aviation A propeller with wings
Aviation Technical Service A red star, engine, propeller, and wings
Airborne Troops An open parachute against the background of two aircraft
Artillery Gun barrels
Armored Troops A tank
Signal and Radio-Technical Troops A red star with wings and lightning bolts
Engineer Troops and Related Units A bulldozer against the background of a circular saw, an anchor, and lightning bolts
Motor Transport and Military Road Units Automobile wheels with wings and a steering wheel
Railway Troops and Military Communications Service A red star with an anchor, wings, a hammer, and an adjustable wrench
Chemical Troops and Military Technical Schools An adjustable wrench and a hammer
Military Topographic Service A red star with an adjustable wrench and a hammer
Quartermaster and Administrative Services A five-pointed star framed by two oak branches
Medical and Veterinary Services A bowl with a snake
Military Bands A lyre

(Quoted from a Ministry of Defense order of 1956. I added nothing of my own, dear commentators.)

Below are two tables based on the orders of 1973 and 1988, both numbered 250. They clearly illustrate the differences compared to the description given above from the 1956 order.

1973. Separate insignia were already introduced for the Chemical Troops and construction units (Stroybat).

Soviet Army and Navy branch insignia introduced by Order No. 250 of 1973, official emblems of military branches and services
Branch and service insignia of the Soviet Army and Navy according to Order No. 250 (1973)

 

Order of the Minister of Defense of the USSR No. 250 (November 1, 1973)

On the implementation of the Rules for wearing military uniforms by servicemen of the Soviet Army and the Navy

Branch / Service Code (Order No. 250 – 1973)
Soviet Army
Motor Rifle Troops BC1-250-73
Aviation BC2-250-73
Airborne Troops BC3-250-73
Tank Troops BC4-250-73
Artillery BC5-250-73
Engineer Troops BC6-250-73
Chemical Troops BC7-250-73
Signal and Radio-Technical Troops BC8-250-73
Automobile Troops BC9-250-73
Railway Troops BC10-250-73
Construction Units BC11-250-73
Military Topographic Service BC12-250-73
Navy
Pipeline Troops BC13-250-73
Quartermaster Service BC14-250-73
Military Bands Service BC15-250-73
Ship Officers of the Navy BC16-250-73
Engineering and Technical Officers of the Navy Ship Personnel BC17-250-73
Naval Artillery BC18-250-73
Unified Insignia (Soviet Army and Navy)
Justice Service BC19-250-73
Medical Service BC21-250-73
Veterinary Service BC22A-250-73 / BC22B-250-73
Administrative Service BC23A-250-73 / BC23B-250-73

There is no longer a separate insignia for the “Air Force technical service” or for naval aviation. 1988.

Soviet Army and Navy branch insignia introduced in 1988 under Order No. 250, showing official emblems of military branches and services
Branch insignia of the Soviet Army and Navy according to USSR Ministry of Defense Order No. 250, March 4, 1988

Order of the Minister of Defense of the USSR No. 250 (March 4, 1988)

On the introduction of the Rules for wearing military uniforms by servicemen of the Soviet Army and Navy

Insignia of Branches of Troops and Services of the Soviet Army and Navy

Branch / Service Code (Order No. 250 – 1988)
Motor Rifle Troops BC1-250-88
Aviation BC2-250-88
Airborne Troops BC3-250-88
Automobile Troops BC10-250-88
Signal Troops and Radio-Technical Troops BC11-250-88
Military Topographic Service BC12-250-88
Artillery BC4-250-88
Tank Troops BC5-250-88
Engineering Troops BC6-250-88
Construction Units and Military Construction Detachments BC13-250-88
Pipeline Troops BC14-250-88
Medical and Veterinary Services BC15-250-88
Chemical Troops BC7-250-88
Railway Troops and Military Communications Service BC8-250-88
Road Troops BC9-250-88
Justice (Military Legal Service) BC16-250-88
Military Conductors and Musicians BC17-250-88

It should be noted that during this period, soldiers’ and sergeants’ headgear (side cap, winter hat, peaked cap, panama hat) still carried a plain five-pointed star, without the familiar yellow-metal wreaths typical of the 1970s–1980s.

Soviet Army cockade with red star and golden wreath, 1969 uniform pattern
Soviet Army cockade with red star and laurel wreath. Introduced by Order No. 191 in 1969 and gradually issued to troops in the early 1970s.

These cockades were introduced together with the new uniform of 1969, but they did not reach the troops immediately. There are accounts from those who served at the time that, instead of a full cockade, a regular star was issued for the hat, and the wreath backing was issued separately.

In general, Order No. 191 states the following:
“Sergeants, senior sergeants, soldiers and conscripts, cadets of military and naval schools, Suvorov and Nakhimov cadets, during parades in Moscow, the capitals of the Union republics, and Hero Cities, must wear on the ushanka the emblem to the star that is prescribed for the peaked cap of these servicemen.”

From 1972, this rule became standard for wearing the winter hat: the cockade with wreath finally replaced the plain star. The variant with a star and a separate wreath backing could still be encountered up until 1975.


1969 Reform: Order No. 191 and the New Everyday Uniform

The cockade for the peaked cap of soldiers and sergeants of the Soviet Army according to the 1969 pattern. On the side cap, the star was still used. From 1972, the same cockade replaced the star on the winter hat.

The new uniform and the rules for wearing it were introduced by Order of the Minister of Defense No. 191 dated July 26, 1969. The introduction was gradual. In practice, the uniform began to reach the troops in 1970.

Soviet Army soldiers wearing uniforms introduced by Order No. 191 of 1969, with SA insignia and cockade after 1972
Soviet Army uniform introduced by Order No. 191 (1969). Field uniform and greatcoat with SA insignia; cockade on headgear indicates the post-1972 period.

New uniform introduced by Order No. 191 of 1969, with minor changes.
In the order itself, the letters CA “SA” were intended to be worn only on the parade tunic and greatcoat. Later, similar insignia also appeared on the shoulder boards of the cotton field uniform.
The cockade on the cap indicates a date after 1972.

Soviet Army everyday uniform of 1969 pattern with SA letters on field uniform
Soviet Army everyday uniform of the 1969 pattern in its most common version, with CA “SA” letters already worn on the field uniform.

New everyday uniform of the 1969 pattern in the version familiar to most people. The CA “SA” letters are already present on the field uniform as well.

Fig. 70 Summer everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of the Military Construction Troops. Shoulder boards with branch-colored piping
Fig. 71 Summer everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of the Airborne Troops
Fig. 72 Summer everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of border and internal troops. Shoulder boards with branch-colored piping
Fig. 73 Winter everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of border and internal troops. Greatcoat with branch-colored collar tabs

The same illustration according to the text of Order No. 191 dated July 26, 1969.

Soviet Army everyday and winter uniforms introduced by Order No. 191 in 1969
Soviet Army uniforms of the 1969 pattern according to Order No. 191, showing summer and winter everyday variants for different branches of service.

Fig. 62 Summer everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of the Airborne Troops
Fig. 63 Winter everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of the Airborne Troops. Greatcoat
Fig. 64 Summer everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of motor rifle troops. Shoulder boards with branch-colored piping
Fig. 65 Winter everyday uniform of sergeants, soldiers and cadets of motor rifle troops. Greatcoat

The main change is that the gymnastyorka with a placket and standing collar was replaced by a jacket with a regular collar. The jacket could be fully unbuttoned, had side pockets at the bottom and two internal pockets.

It is worth recalling once again that the 1955 uniform was designed for peacetime. In 1955, little was known about combat operations under conditions of weapons of mass destruction. Removing a gymnastyorka over the head from a soldier suffering burns, exposure to chemical agents or radiation was much more difficult than removing a buttoned jacket.

In addition, the leadership of the Soviet Armed Forces sought to get rid of archaic elements of military dress in order to maintain the prestige of service, keeping pace with the times, so to speak.

All uniform sets of the 1969 pattern matched each other stylistically, while preserving overall continuity of traditional elements of military dress.

This cannot be said about the uniform of the modern Russian army. Here we have T-shirts worn outside, Latin American-style peaked caps, striped shirts and berets in all colors of the rainbow, and “imperial” parade uniforms with standing collars. A complete mishmash.

Looking for original Soviet Ushanka? You can get them here → [Soviet Ushanka]

Soviet Army soldier on leave wearing sleeve service stripes before their abolition in 1982
Soviet Army soldier on leave. Sleeve service stripes (“year stripes”) visible on the uniform, abolished in 1982.

A soldier on leave. On his sleeve are “service year stripes,” which were abolished in 1982. The guy apparently didn’t know about prostatitis 🙂 And neither did the artist.


1988 Reform: Updates and the Start of “Afghanka”

Parade uniform of conscript servicemen and cadets, 1988 pattern.

Soviet Army parade uniforms of conscripts and cadets, 1988 pattern, showing variations of dress uniform and greatcoat
Parade uniforms of Soviet Army conscripts and cadets, 1988 pattern. Minor updates to the 1969 uniform included shirt shoulder boards and the abolition of service year stripes.

Fig. 81 Summer parade uniform of conscript sergeants and soldiers of construction troops, border troops, internal troops, and military school cadets (without sleeve insignia)
Fig. 82 Summer parade uniform of aviation school cadets with light-blue trousers (chino style)
Fig. 83 Winter parade uniform of conscript sergeants and soldiers of internal troops, border troops, and military school cadets
Fig. 84 Summer parade uniform in shirt sleeves of conscript sergeants and soldiers, military school cadets, and construction troops (shirt worn outside the trousers)

It differs only slightly from the basic 1969 version: shoulder boards were added to the shirt, and the so-called “service year stripes” were abolished.

In 1988, colored shoulder boards on the field (cotton) uniform were abolished. They had originally been planned as a peacetime option. At the same time, the gradual introduction of a new everyday and field uniform began, popularly known as the “Afghanka.” In practice, this uniform had appeared much earlier in Soviet units in the Democratic Republic of Afghanistan and in some units on the territory of the USSR.

Development of this uniform set and its experimental use began in 1975. From 1978, the new uniform started arriving at warehouses. However, the large stock of 1969-pattern uniforms meant that this version of the field and everyday uniform continued to be used right up until the collapse of the USSR.

Officially, the “Afghanka” was approved by USSR Ministry of Defense Order No. 250 of March 4, 1988, as an everyday and field uniform for Airborne Forces personnel, and as a field uniform for servicemen of other branches and arms of the Soviet Army.

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Soviet Army Afghanka uniform with cap, field jacket, belt, and telnyashka undershirt, late 1980s
Soviet Army “Afghanka” field uniform featuring the cap, jacket, belt, and striped telnyashka undershirt.

Looking for Soviet Telnyashka? You can get them here → [Soviet Telnyashka]

Telnyashka: History of the Russian Navy and VDV Striped Shirt

Appearance of the uniform set. The new set was clearly more functional and comfortable (especially the winter version) and better matched the realities of modern warfare, while maintaining a reasonable cost and acceptable manufacturing complexity.

Afghanka uniform with boots

Soviet Army Afghanka field uniform with boots, summer and winter versions for soldiers and sergeants
Soviet Army Afghanka field uniform with boots, showing summer and winter versions for soldiers, sergeants, and cadets.
  • Fig. 93. Summer field uniform of sergeants, soldiers, and cadets
  • Fig. 94. Winter field uniform of sergeants, soldiers, and cadets
  • Fig. 95. Summer field uniform of sergeants, soldiers, and cadets
  • Fig. 96. Winter field uniform of sergeants, soldiers, and cadets

Soviet Afghan combat boots? You can get them here → [Soviet M88 combat Boots]


Check more articles:

History from the Red Army (RKKA) to the Soviet Army


More Cold War Soviet Army Uniform Articles

Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army in 1968 -1991 Part 1
Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army (1968–1991) – Part 2
Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army (1968–1991) – Part 3
Field Uniform and Equipment of the Soviet Army (1968–1991) – Part 4

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FAQ: Soviet Army Uniform 1955–1991

What was the main goal of the 1955 uniform reform?

The 1955 changes aimed to create a peacetime uniform and modernize details that were inherited from earlier wartime patterns.

Which order introduced the peacetime rules and insignia changes in 1956?

USSR Ministry of Defense Order No. 120 dated August 4, 1956 introduced new rules for wearing uniforms and branch insignia for peacetime.

When did the 1969 uniform reform begin in practice?

Order No. 191 is dated July 26, 1969, and in practice the uniform began reaching troops around 1970.

Why did the cockade with wreath become common after 1972?

The cockade with wreath gradually replaced the plain star as a standard for winter headgear, and variations could still be seen until around 1975.

When was “Afghanka” approved officially?

“Afghanka” was approved by USSR Ministry of Defense Order No. 250 of March 4, 1988 as an everyday and field uniform for specific branches and as a field uniform for others.

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